New England Clam Chowder

Last week my friend and former culinary school cohort Brian wrote about some nasty, NASTY dehydrated clam, pot noodle concoction.  Many of us weighed in on not only how disgusting the thought of eating it was, but about other evil atrocities like clam chowder that includes tomatoes (no, just no! - have cioppino instead please) and noodles.  The horror of that Styrofoam contained monstrosity triggered my instincts to right the world's wrongs by making some clam chowder today for dinner.  I mean, what else does one think of when they live in New England and the landscape has been white since two weeks before Christmas, white snow, salt white roads and cars, white, white, WHITE, snowblindness.  Oh and did I mention that it was 2 degrees F when we awoke this morning?  Yea, chowder it is.

Oh look at the 6:00 PM heat wave!

Now I'm not writing this recipe to inform Brian on making good clam chowder.  He needs no help, not only has he been down the path of culinary lessons, but folks he's from Maine and there is an unspoken rule that you come out of the womb knowing how to make clam chowder and how to find a mean Whoopie pie.  I'm putting this recipe here because I really don't know why anyone would buy clam chowder in a can or frozen because really, if there is an easier soup to make I don't know what it is. 

I called my favourite local fishmonger Captain Marden's this morning to find out if they had fresh chopped chowder clams and of course they did. 

But really, there is ABSOLUTELY nothing wrong with using clams in a can.  Nope there is NO shame there.  I also picked up some of their fish stock, fumet if your feeling all food snotty or French, sure I could make it myself by asking for some heads and frames of a non-oily fish and about 30 minutes of my time, but this is fish stock from a major fish store that wholesales to local restaurants, if their fish stock isn't good shame on them and i assure you, it IS good.

On my trail of errands I also picked up some bottled clam juice.  A pantry staple in this house that I use liberally whenever making fish based soups or steaming mussels, or making clams with linguine.  Cheap and so useful.  I recommend every cupboard have a bottle or two.  I'm not asking you to drink clamato here people, but you will find yourself using it far more often than you think.

Now another traditional aspect of clam chowder is salt pork.  Maybe it is just because I live here in New England, but I can always find salt pork in my local grocery store, generally somewhere near the bacon.  It keeps for a long time and if you check each package you can find one that has lots of streaks of meat and good chunks of fat.  As you would expect from the name it IS salty, but it adds a depth of flavour to clam chowder that is necessary.  Bacon, is an option that others have used as a substitute, but in my mind the smoked flavour of bacon is not right for this chowder.  You want the pork, the salt, but not the smoke or the often added flavourings that come along with bacon like maple or pepper.  If you do find salt pork, it will freeze well, so don't worry that you won't use the portion you find in the store, it keeps for a long time. Oh, and as an added bonus in these lean times, it is cheap as chips as they say.

I happened to have some guanciale in the fridge.  What, you don't have friends who buy you cured pork products as gifts?!?  My friend Renee bought me a full package of Niman Ranch guanciale (cured, salted pig jowls) for a Christmas present this year AND she wrapped it in a snazzy red box with a ribbon.  Doesn't everyone want a friend like her? 

There are a few heretical things I do with this recipe for purists.  First I use Yukon Gold potato since they hold together AND they allow me to freeze and reheat my chowder without them falling apart and turning to mush. 

Second, I add flour to my onions to thicken my chowder.  Yukons may retain their shape, but they are not as starchy as a Russet and I am not using the ancient tradition of thickening with crushed up hard tack crackers, so I use some flour to give it body.  I use the fish stock I mention above along with clam juice.  Some purists would only use the juice from steaming open the clams.  Whole clams that they steamed open, shucked and chopped themselves.  Is life not too short people?

Okay here is the recipe..simple and quick, what more could you want? And don't bitch about the cream, you aren't eating this every night for heavens sake!

New England Clam Chowdah (Chowder for you non native speakers)

2 ounces salt pork or guanciale, diced

2 cups Spanish onion minced fairly fine

4 TBS flour

4 cups fish stock

8 ounces bottled clam juice

1.5 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced into chunks between 1/4 and 1/2-inch depending on your preference.

2 cups of chopped fresh chowder clams (or equivalent canned, drained with juice reserved and used as part of the toatl clam juice, fish stock amounts)

2 cups half and half OR 1 cup heavy cream and 1 cup whole milk

Salt, to taste

In a large, heavy pot slowly render the guanciale or salt pork.

Remove the cracklings and set them aside, serve them sprinkled on top of your chowder, if you can resist eating them as you cook.

Slowly cook the diced onions in the fat for about 6 - 10 minutes, stirring frequently, you don't want colour here, more like a sweat, in fact for part of the time I cook them on very low heat with a lid on.

Stir in the flour and cook, stirring, for 2-3  minutes.

Add the fish stock and clam juice, stir or whisk to remove any lumps

Add the diced potatoes and then bring the liquid to a boil, turn it down a bit and then simmer until the potatoes are cooked through, about 15 minutes.

Lower the heat substantially and stir in the reserved clams and cream/milk mixture or half and half.

Allow this to come up to temperature very slowly being careful to not bring it to a boil.  Now taste and add some salt.  I think I ended up with 1 - 2 tsp in the end.  Don't panic people, again, look how much liquid we have here!  Add some, taste, let it simmer gently.  Taste, season again.  Heck, add some cracked black pepper if that's how you roll.  Just no tomatoes..PLEASE.

Oh...and I bought a new book today.  More details later.

Comments

[breadchick]

Oh HO! Great minds... I made some clam chowder today too! And tomorrow on a quick up and back down trip, I have NEBF on my schedule for tomorrow too.

BTW, any ideas for me on fresh compressed yeast in Boston. My supplier here is not carrying it any more. Good with 1 lb chunk sizes.

[Bobbisocks]

Wow, you make chowda much like me and I am Californian!! I got my recipe from Monteray Bay in California and it is very like that, but uses a bit of clam base and you can put it in a crockpot to keep warm. I find the chowder is better the next day. I make loads too. Thanks for your recipe. We do make our own fish stock. We fish.

[margaret]

Your chowder looks scrummy--like every other dish illustrated on this blog!

[Brian]

I am still not totally recovered from the visceral reaction to the idea of "clam chowder flavored" ramen.

You're not the only person I inspired to go make some real chowder. Tony whipped up some seafood chowder.

My chowder recipe is exactly the same as yours, except I don't have any friends to give me guanciale for Christmas, so I stick to salt pork. I suppose I should use this as an excuse to make a batch myself.

[Judy]

Please send some down here to North Carolina. Being south of the Mason-Dixon line means New England Clam Chowder is unheard of. Since I have ventured to Maine a couple of times in my life (in the company of a Northerner of course!) I love it. Since there is no Clam Chowder, guess I'll go fry some chicken!

[Yorkshiresoul]

That looks good, it's a cold winter's day here in Yorkshire and I might just make a good hearty soup for dinner, brown onion with cheddar toasts or a nice thick and creamy chicken and leek, mmmmm.

[Anthony]

Being from New England (Vermont) I love Clam Chowder. I like it rick and creamy, salty and full of clams. This recipe is the best I've tried by far. I will cook this again and again. Thanks :-)

[Anthony]

Being from New England (Vermont) I love Clam Chowder. I like it rick and creamy, salty and full of clams. This recipe is the best I've tried by far. I will cook this again and again. Thanks :-)

[Anthony]

Being from New England (Vermont) I love Clam Chowder. I like it rick and creamy, salty and full of clams. This recipe is the best I've tried by far. I will cook this again and again. Thanks :-)

[xlpharmacy]

I make loads too. Thanks for your recipe. We do make our own fish stock. We fish.This recipe is the best I've tried by far. I will cook this again and again.