This recipe is at the behest of a kitchen in brabant. I hope I'm not preaching to the converted, but I'll include some of the history that is included in the recipe. This comes from a cookbook my grandmother handed down to me. It is called 'The Cuisine of Hungary' by George Lang.
Gulyas: (There should be an accent over the a) The origins of the soup can be traced to the ninth century - shepherds cut their meat into cubes, cooked it with onion in a heavy iron kettle (bogracs) and slowly stewed the dish until all the liquid evaporated. They dried the remnants in the sun (probably on their sheepskin capes), and then put the dried food in a bag made of sheep's stomach. Whenever they wanted food, they took out a piece of dried meat, added some water and reheated it. With a lot of liquid, it became gulyas soup (gulyasleves); if less liquid was added, it became gulyas meat (gulyashus). Even today this distinction exists, probably to mystify foreigners and foreign cookbook writers.
The more parts of beef and beef inards are used, the better the gulyas will be. Of course, lard and bacon (either one or both) and chopped onion are absolute musts.
Never use and flour, Never use any other spice besides caraway, Never Frenchify it with wine, Never Germanize it with brown sauce. Never put in any other garniture besides diced potatoes or galuska (dumplings).
There are three other dishes around this base of Gulyas. The first is called Porkolt (umlaut over both o's) which means 'singed'. The closest translation would be 'dry-stewed'. I had to include this quote because it made me laugh. The Hungarian writer Julius Krudy, who was especially fond of Porkolt, mused: "Onion, the apple of the earth, is able to emit such scents as women meeting lovers do. Hot bacon drippings, the lover of the onion, keeps asking sizingly from the top of the stove: why was I born?--The onion then passionately explains everything...."
One is called Paprikas (again accent over the a) :The chief difference between Porkolt and Paprikas is that Paprikas is finished with sour cream, sometimes mixed with a little flour, but always stirred before serving.
His quotes and not mine "You may never use cream of any kind for Gulyas or Porkolt".
Finally there is Tokany (accent over the a). The word comes form the Romanian toscana, meaning ragout.
It carries on with a page or so of variations for Tokany.
Here is the recipe for Kettle Gulyas Bogracsgulyas
2 medium sized onions
2 TBS lard
2.5 pds beef chuck or round , cut into 3/4 inch cubes
1/2 pd beef heart (optional), cut into 3/4-inch cubes
1 garlic clove (I'll admit to adding more)
Pinch of Caraway seeds
Salt
2 TBS "Noble Rose paprika (They are very specific about the type of paprka saying all others are merely colourants)
1 medium-sized ripe tomatoe
2 green frying or Italian peppers
1 pd. potatoes
Little dumplings (to follow)
1. Peel onions and chop into course pieces. Melt lard in a heavy 6 to 8 quart dutch oven. Saute onions in lard. Heat should be low in order not to brown the onions.
2. When the onions become glossy, add beef and beef heart. Stir so that during this process, which should last for 10 minutes, the meat will be sauted with the onions.
3. Meanwhile chop and crush the garlic with the caraway seeds and a little salt; use the flat side of a heavy knife.
4. Take kettle from heat. Stir in paprika and the garlic mixture. Stir rapidly with a wooden spoon. Immediately after paprika is absorbed, add 2.5 quarts warm water. (Cold water toughens meat if you add it while the meat is frying).
5. Replace covered kettle over low heat and cook for about 1 hour.
6. While the braising is going on, peel the tomato, then cut into 1 inch pieces. Core green peppers and slice into rings. Peel potatoes and cut into 3/4 inch dice.
7. After the meat has been braised for about 1 hour (the time depends on the cut of the meat), add the cut-up tomato and green peppers and enough water to give a soup consistancy. Add a little salt. Simmer slowly for another 30 mintues.
8. Add potatoes, and cook the Gulyas till done. Adjust salt. Add hot cherry pepper pods if you want to make it spicy hot.
9. Cook the dumplings in the stew.
10, Serve the Gulyas steaming hot in large extra deep bowls. The meat should be tender but not falling apart.
Note:
Variations:
I. Some (and I find this funny as well, because a cookbook would never say this now) housewives start with small pieces of smoked bacon instead of lard.
II. Paloc soup: The city cousin. This is a mutton gulyuas eith a lot of green beans and sour cream.
III. porkolt If you eliminate most of the liquid and cook the meat down to its fat you get porkolt.
IV. Beer Gulyas: Make the same way as above but substitute beer for water in step 4.
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