Amuse Bouche

Craigie on Main - The Whole Hog

As I mentioned before, Alasdair and I had a 'date' to go to Craigie on Main for their once a year Whole Hog dinner.  Originally it was supposed to be 4 of us, but at the last minute Brian had babysitter issues, so in the end Alasdair and I decided what the hell and carried on.

I apologise in advance for the photos, I thought bringing the SLR might be a bit rude, I borrowed Alasdair's dad's point and shoot, but we kept having problems with shutting off the flash and without it the pictures were hopeless, so I only have a few iphone photos with which to tempt you into going. In the end I needn't have worried, every table around us had their cellphones out snapping pictures of their pig heads.

The place was sold out and hopping when we arrived at 7:30.  We asked the hostess if we could stand on the side and watch the action for a bit. The open kitchen and pass were buzzing like a hive. Chef Maws was right there making sure everything went out perfectly cooked and plates were constantly being wiped and inspected.  Suddenly Alasdair noticed a pig head passing by us.  He looked at me with wide eyes.  When we were seated we noticed we were right near the 86 board and it read: 4 3 2 1 pig head.  We had high hopes.

Our waiter, who I hope I remember correctly was Patrick,  arrived and offered up the wine list and the prix fixe menu sheet for the night with the quote "Never eat more than you can lift" - Miss Piggy on the top of the page.  Alasdair informed me he could lift quite a bit.  I told the waiter that I was obviously the designated driver for the night, pointing over to Alasdair, and asked if perhaps they might have something sparkly and non-alcoholic for us to have instead.  Patrick asked if we would like the bar to make a mocktail flight for us for each course. I looked Alasdair and he was nodding yes wildly.

Then we asked the important question.  How could we get the pig head? We pointed at  the 86 board ever hopeful that 2 and 1 had not been taken, but the news was sad.  It wasn't listed on the menu and was only being announced table-side.  Sadly  for us the last one was gone.  Ah well.  I told him we'll go to Estragon one night and have it when he gets back from school. We placed our orders being careful to choose the opposite dishes in some courses so we could sample.

The Amuse and the first mocktail arrived.  Not to discount the pork, because boys and girls there was some fine, FINE pork to be had that night, but I was truly blown away by the mocktails.  Not only did they make a new libation for each course, they made a different one for each of us!  I'd sip mine, he'd sip his and we'd switch for a taste.  As you can see they were served in traditional cocktail glasses so I delighted in the stare of abject horror by the woman 'of an age' several tables away who likely thought I was getting Alsadair soused. Each one was spectacular.  They make all of their infusions, bitters, syrups and potions.  My favourite was one with peach, nectarine and rhubarb and one with orange blossom water. I never once missed the alcohol.  If you go, be sure to let them test out a few on you, I assure you that you will not be disappointed.

Amuse: Lardo on a crispy rice wafer, pork cracklings, Pâté de Campagne, prosciutto

The waiter, overhearing Alsadair talking about the onion and tomato confit he was planning to make the next day started asking questions.  Pretty soon he was chatting lovely food things with us as he picked up each course to clear away.  We talked about Transglutaminase-Activa and immersion circulators, le-sanctuaire and sausages.  A meal can obviously make or break your restaurant experience, but so can the wait staff and we adored our waiter.  He really made the night.  We found out that the kitchen upstairs is just for finishing the dishes, there is a whole laboratory downstairs in the basement where the real action takes place.  There are 3 walk-ins of which 2 are used just for curing everything in-house. Alasdair was telling him about his visit to tour the kitchens at no9 Park and how one huge room is just for meat fabrication all stainless steel with no seams anywhere and a whole hose system for washing everything down.  They talked about her upcoming fine dining venture and then we got back to Chef Maws and where he sources the pigs.

1st course: Alasdair chose the Tortellini of Braised Pork Belly, and after the first taste I wished I had chosen it as well.  Light as air, served en brodo and filled with perfect shredded belly  I had the Glacée of Summer Farm Vegetables and House Cured Lomo simply because I wanted to try the huitlacoche jus ( which sounds infinitely better than corn smut). Every tiny perfect vegetable tasted like it had been cooked separately, every taste was distinct and the revelation was the cooked radish.  I never think to cook them as I am too busy dipping them in butter and salt.  But cooked they are milder with just a bit of the bite left.

Next course I chose the Crispy Fromage de Tête with the most perfect egg on top.

Alasdair chose the House Made Boudin Noir and Chorizo Stuffed Grilled Local Squid.

For our third course we both chose the Vermont Organic Pork Three Ways: Spice Crusted Rib, Glazed and Grilled Belly, Bacon Wrapped Loin. That pork loin was the most tender, perfectly cooked piece of loin I have ever had the joy of eating.  It certainly didn't need a knife.  But oh my.  The pork belly.  Crisp outside, soft and sweet inside.  By the time this course came and I stopped Alasdair to take a picture he was all "Come on I want to eat it!"

We finished up with the Cornbread Pain Perdu, followed by a plate of tiny Mignardises.  Alsadair dove on the truffles and I wish I could have captured his face when he bit into the first one. I think it just might have been love at first bite. There was a final nosh, courtesy the chef which was a light as air custard of rhubarb with a cream foam on top.

As we finished up Alasdair looked at me and said words to the effect of "it sucks to be your friend", meaning poor Brian who missed out, but we had an amazing dinner.  Craigie and Chef Maws deserve every bit of praise that is heaped on them.  Go, eat local, eat fresh, eat well.

Craigie on Main
853 Main St
Cambridge, MA
617 497-5511

Citrio

One of the added benefits to teaching in a culinary school is the fact that many of those you teach will one day head out to the wild blue yonder and work in various kitchens.  This means you get to swan in and visit them, try the food and have a little insider moment.
Last month I went to visit a friend of mine from CSCA at his new venture Citrio Catering & Provisions Co.
We all used to tease Mark when he was going through the program as he came in every day with his whites starched and pressed (with creases!) and after cooking all day and doing boatloads of dishes he went home looking EXACTLY as neat and clean as when he came in the door.  I mean come on, look at the cuffs on his chefs coat.  The man is neat. The other thing we miss about Mark was his ability to 'hold court' every morning before class spinning us stories of his neighbors or a charity event he had been to recently.  The man has a way with a tale. Now, he has a way with jalapeño jam, but we'll get to that later.

Mark has partnered up with well known chef, Jeff Fournier, owner of 51 Lincoln, which is located right across the street from Citrio , as well as Eric Bogardus of Vox Populi, Loche Ober ,Pignoli and also a former contender to be White House chef, to open up a sweet little bistro/cafe/catering operation right in Newton Highlands.  Both Jeff, and Eric, I might add, have previously worked under Lydia Shire, my personal cooking goddess, that fact alone makes them okay in my book.

I swung by about 2 weeks after they opened to meet some friends and catch up with Mark.  In his usual style he drew me right in telling me about the space.

The space they occupy was the site of the very first Brigham's store in the 1920's.  In later years it became Ice Cream Works and now that they have taken over the space, in a nod to its illustrious past, they have kept on making ice cream.  In fact, they have this amazing machine that can crank out 40 gallons of ice cream in an hour! The machine gives them the ability to make ice cream wholesale and sell it to local restaurants and you should see the size of the walk in freezer! They also use this spacious site to make all the breads for both Citrio and 51 Lincoln. 

The food at Citrio is Modern American with flavours culled from other global cuisines.  The day I visited I had a pulled pork sandwich on a house made roll accompanied by sweet potato chips that they make in-house.

Nice tender pulled pork in a sweet style sauce (Sorry, I started eating before I even thought about taking a picture...so good!). They have a great selection of soups including Sancocho, a Columbian style chicken and lime soup, various salads, hot and cold sandwiches, a killer Bolognaise made in traditional slow cooked style.  All of these dishes were available in March when I was there and I am guessing that they will slowly change the menu a bit to get seasonal for spring and summer.

When you walk in the door there is a deli case full of platters loaded with things like Citrio's House Smoked Chicken in a Pomegranate Marinade, Toasted Cous Cous Salad with Ginger and Grilled Plums and Peruvian Potato Salad with House Smoked Salt and Fresh Horseradish.  All of this is available to buy by the pound to take home. Right around the corner there is a case of frozen take home selections as well as the item that had me buying 10 on the spot, veal stock. 

Yes, I said house made veal stock all ready to take home and use in perfect little containers.  I was in love.  But the house made item that made my heart sing was the jalapeño jam, just one of several home made jams they sell. 

The jalapeño jam is a thick, rich jewel coloured jam packed with slices of garlic and multi coloured peppers.  It plays perfectly on the sweet/hot/tart line that I love.  Slather some on a spice rubbed pork tenderloin and grill it.  Spread a little over your cream cheese on a bagel.  I promise, you'll become as addicted as I have. I have threatened physical harm if the recipe changes.

Melissa, who also worked with us for a time at create a cook,  bakes some mean desserts for both 51 Lincoln and Citrio. Chocolate bread pudding, killer Super Charged Brownies and house made marshmallows that melt on your tongue.

On the other side they have about 20 seats in a sun lit yellow room and the day we were there a constant stream of customers came in and out as well as a few people who chose to  linger over their lunch with a book or the paper.  It's a great little neighborhood place to drop by.  Right now they have started their outdoor seating area as well and this is a rare thing here in Newton.  You can sit under the trees in a sunny brick lined courtyard and linger over your lunch.  But they don't want to stop there, Citrio also caters and this is where things get really interesting.  Rather than choosing from the usual list of catering options in tick box fashion, Citro will customize the menu for your event.  Tell them the foods you like, the cuisines you love, the theme of your event and they will custom tailor the menu for you. 

Stop by sometime, say hello to Mark and tell him jo sent you.

Citrio Catering and Provisions Co.
2 Hartford Street
Newton, Highlands
617-969-1234
Mon - Sat 11-6:30 PM
Closed Sunday

BBQ Pit

Starting tomorrow for 5 days at create a cook it's BBQ Pit.  I am so excited!  We've rented a 50" long grill and the field trip Thursday is to East Coast Grill.  Sadly, my grilling God, Chris Schlesinger won't be there, one of these days though I'll finally get to meet him in person and have a little food chat, maybe act all groupie and get him to sign my books.  Sadly I lost my copy of Salsas, Sambals, Chutneys and Chow-Chows to the great dishwasher disaster circa 1995 - long story - but I always scour used book stores to find a replacement copy.  In fact Friday I picked up a copy of Quick Pickles at the Book Fair.
I have all the other books he did with John Willoughby as well.

What are we making next week?

·    Sate chicken with peanut sauce
·    Chicken and vegetable Yakitori
·    Fragrant Malay Rice with mixed Fresh herbs and edible flowers
·    Scallion Pancakes
·    Savory Watermelon and Pineapple Salad
·    Macadamia Nut brownies
·    Creamed Cornbread
·    Banana Papaya Fool
·    Grilled corn on the cob cotija cheese and lime
·    Watermelon-Strawberry Aqua Fresca
·    Mock Kansas City Ribs, Rub and BBQ Sauce
·    Mesa Grill Potato Salad
·    Uncommon Carrot-Raisin Slaw
·    Grilled lamb Kefta
·    Sunny sweet tea (hope for sun please)
·    White Bean Salad with Grilled Squash, Zucchini and Roasted Red pepper Dressing
·    Fattoush
·    Pita breads
·    Grilled fruits with Balsamic Reduction glaze
·    Burgers galore (make our own Ground beef from Chuck Roast) with the fixin's
·    Ziti with Grilled Gazpacho Sauce and sausages
·    Grilled chicken and sausages with peaches, peppers, pecorino and black olive vinaigrette
·    Grilled Fresh mozzarella and bread skewers
·    Chocolate Pizza

I'm thinking those will be some pretty happy 11 - 13 year olds, and maybe a few parents as well.
Any recipes you want?  Pictures of what we make?  Let me know, I'll try to oblige.

Summer in New England

Fried Clams: The Clam Box, Ipswich, MA

Abe and Louie's

Tonight was a farewell dinner with the group that I work with and we decided to live it up in style. We left the office at 2:30 on a school day and hopped over to Abe and Louie's on Boylston Street. It is a steakhouse in the panelled and leather tradition with enormous cuts of beef and everything ordered A La Carte. I've been to Morton's, Grill 23 and Capitol Grille, but I like Abe and Louie's the best.
For our grand send off our boss flew up from Charlotte and part of our team came up from Providence and in the end it was 9 of us sitting around an oval table in the corner.
The beauty of a farewell dinner is that you really needn't worry about saying anything bad nor charming your boss. Sucking up isn't required, not of course that we need to do that Kevin, as you know that your butt is out of there in a few months anyway so everyone in general let their hair down and went for the big guns. There was none of this should I order a drink or shouldn't I, should I order that expensive appetizer or see what she was ordering first.

Nope Bacchanalian all the way.

Cocktails all around first.
First we had the seafood tower which is a two level affair of Oysters Rockefeller, Clams Casino, stuffed mushrooms, raw cherry stones and raw Oysters on the half shell, 2 whole steamed lobsters sliced in half and the usual horseradish, cocktail sauce and other sides. The table also got two orders of crab cake which looked to be all crab meat with absolutely no filler and they came with a mango chutney and tartar sauce on the side plus two dishes beefsteak tomato with With Great Hill Blue cheese and Vidalia onions and an order of Seared Ahi with a ginger soy sauce. While we were quaffing this we ordered two bottles of Penfold's Bin 28. Our waiter was a fabulous, amusing and very patient man who explained the sauces and cuts of meat to everyone. Most of us ordered the Rib Eye (which is not listed on the menu), there was one Veal chop, a Bone-In Filet Mignon and Filet Au Poivre for the Swiss contingent. They brought an assortment of all of their sauces and we ordered Sautéed spinach, portabello mushrooms, mashed potatoes and steamed broccoli for the table as side dishes.

Were we done yet you ask?

Hell no.

Another bottle of wine was ordered and the great food silence commenced.

Then our very patient server came over for the next round. Several Crème Brulee, a dish of ice cream for the boss lady, a cheesecake, an apple pie a la mode and for our resident comedienne a towering chocolate thunder cake thingie that was almost as tall as she was. A few cafe mocha's some espresso a grappa or two, a glass of Laphroaig for moi and a Jameson's and hey, how about another bottle of wine!
As you can see, a grand time was had by all. Our boss rushed back to Logan to catch his flight back home to Charlotte and the rest of us toddled, waddled and hobbled back to our respective trains to be whisked home.

Thank you Kevin, it was a great last hurrah.

P.S. Maura wants to know if we will be having a post lay-off dinner?

P.P.S. Welcome everyone *waves hi* you shall be able to find me here when we are all split up our separate ways. I hope you enjoy it.